4 dishes to try in Atlanta this month: ‘Forest adventure’ to Greek lasagna
No matter if the weather is like a lion or a lamb, here are four tasty dishes to try in March.
Porcini at Capolinea
When pastry chef Daniella Lea Rada conceptualized this dish, she envisioned hiking through a forest in the Italian Alps on a foggy morning, carrying a basket full of foraged items: mushrooms, berries, twigs and flowers. The beauty and flavors of her creation are stunning.
A chocolate-glazed porcini mushroom rises from chocolate soil containing pieces of caramelized mushrooms. It’s surrounded by edible sorrel flowers. Under the chestnut-colored, shiny dome are various layers: a juniper-scented, airy chocolate mousse and a compote of tangy red currant over a nutty, toasty roasted-hazelnut praline. The fungi’s stipe is dipped in white chocolate and hand-carved and painted to resemble a wild porcini mushroom. A quenelle of porcini-milk chocolate gelato rests alongside.
Capolinea is located within Signia by Hilton. 159 Northside Drive NW, Atlanta. 404-301-8843, capolineaatlanta.com
Little Red Corvette pizza at MTH Pizza
It’s difficult to pick a pie from the creative combinations at Smyrna’s MTH Pizza, but the spicy-sweet Little Red Corvette is clutch. First and foremost, the base is a light and flavorful crust made from dough that undergoes a 72-hour cold ferment. It’s crisp with a light chew, a nice char and airy blisters.
The ingredients on top are perfectly distributed for a sweet and savory balance. There is herbal depth from fire-roasted pesto against a concentrated, umami-rich tang of preserved tomatoes. The creamy interplay of gooey mozzarella and cooling dollops of ricotta provides a lush landscape for sweet onions to shine. But it’s the final drizzle of spicy Calabrian honey that kicks everything into gear, leaving a smoky spiciness that sticks to your lips.
1675 Cumberland Parkway SE, Smyrna. 678-424-1333, mthpizza.com
Pastitsio (aka Greek Lasagna) at Buddy Buddy
It may sound strange to buddy up to a bar and order a Greek lasagna, but that is precisely the move to make at Midtown’s Buddy Buddy, where family recipes like this pastitsio fill the menu. It’s massive in both size and homey authenticity.
The tubular, bucatini-like noodles are arranged in a thick layer resembling a honeycomb filled with bechamel. It is generously topped with a minced beef and lamb meat sauce and punctuated by warming spices — cinnamon, cloves, allspice. A cover of bechamel, baked to a speckled deep brown, adds richness and a flourish of fresh herbs offers aromatic notes. It’s delightfully dense and comforting, and tastes even better the next day.
931 Monroe Drive NE, Atlanta. 404-481-5226, buddybuddyatl.com
That Sh!t Salmon at Che Butter Jonez
Making a memorable sandwich takes skill. Nailing the proportions of the star ingredient and the bread is crucial, as is using the perfect accompaniments. The salmon sandwich at Brookhaven’s Che Butter Jonez does it every time.
This bread is a thick, buttery brioche. Cakey-soft in texture, with griddled sides that make it structurally sturdy. The equally thick fresh salmon fillet is grilled to perfection, with a crispy exterior, juicy interior and bold seasoning. The lettuce and tomato are seasoned well, too. The secret “Che sauce” is made bright, tangy and green by the many herbs folded into it, and elevates each bite. You’ll wish for a cupful to dip the crispy fries into as well.
1602 Lavista Road, Brookhaven. 404-919-4061, chebutterjonez.com
